Umbria, Lazio and Tuscany
So often we are asked about our life in Umbria. Every day - well nearly every day - something interesting happens so we thought you might like to read about it.
The latest entry is at the top.
The fifth annual Ferrari rally took place at Marsciano today. I was especially excited because the route took the cars right past our house! There were 36 of them altogether including a rare and very expensive Ferrari Enzo (see left), a wickedly fast F40, and a beautiful silver 275GTB.
Click each of these links to see videos of the rally.
9th November 2006
We were returning home today when we saw a guy walking down the shoulder of the superstrada. We're not talking about the wide hard shoulder on English motorways, but a narrow band on the edge of the road...dangerous! We pulled into a filling station not far beyond him to top up with fuel. As I was leaving the pay booth he approached me and showed me his identity card. He was from the state police! I was so taken aback that I didn't completely understand what he was asking me but it seemed that he wanted a lift to the next motorway junction, where his car was parked. Or maybe he was arresting me! I thought it best to check with my wife so I went to the car. He explained again and sure enough he was asking for a lift. We decided to take him and he turned out to be quite a nice guy, and genuine.
24th - 27th August 2006
After a long holiday in New Zealand for Christmas this is the year of the short holiday. We have taken several two or three days away and this is one of them. Our Italian friends Attilio, Lanfranco and their wives, identical twin sisters Anna Maria and Anna Rita, took us to Puglia for three days and we drove down in Lanfranco's Fiat Multipla, boys in the front, girls in the back. One afternoon we had a small beach all to ourselves following a short thunderstorm. The sea was warm and the sun shone (for most of the time), we ate great seafood and stayed in a comfortable hotel. One big advantage of taking a holiday in Italy is that we speak the language. There are also so many places to visit and we can always send our postcards when we get home!
Click here to see more photos.
24th August 2006
Everyone loves the sound of running water and we are no exception, so I built a water feature in our top garden that even Charlie Dimmock would be proud of. There is a tank in the back with a ball valve which is fed by mains water to a ball valve so it will never run dry and we can collect water from the tap to water the plant pots. Water is cycled through the tap, into the bowl and back to the tank in which there is a pond pump taking it back up to the tap. We plan to get some better pots within the next week or so. It's all made from bricks, stones and tiles that were lying around the garden and I bought the terracotta pieces from a shop near our village. Next job is to fit a timer so that it only runs at times when we are in the garden.
20th August 2006

With our growing number of ducks we now need a second duck house. This one is made from plywood that Roddy Gee used to send over the stained glass windows mentioned below and you can just see the writing on the inside. I like to recycle things in this way, if possible. The hunting season starts in a couple of weeks so they will need all the shelter they can get!
7th to 9th August 2006
I was delighted when Mike Carroll (left) invited me to join him and his two children, Tom and Michaela, on his yacht for a couple of days. He and his wife Julie bought a house through us recently and they have become good friends of ours. We sailed down the coast from the mouth of the Tiber to the small port of Nettuna in his 35 foot steel yacht 'Lisarne'. We had great weather on the way down but had to skirt round a thunderstorm on the way back. Double click the centre button to see my interview with Mike.
11th July 2006
Once again we returned home from a couple of days in Sirolo to find that our mother duck had hatched out a further seven ducklings. We lost all but one of the last brood to an owl or something, so we were delighted to see more. You can watch them 'live' on our webcam by simply clicking here.
19th June 2006
Wolf! Yes, my wife was confronted by a wolf in the garden recently. A friend had seen it the day before but was afraid to report it in case he wasn't believed! It tried to rip open our chicken run, unsuccessfully, although the gate was bent outwards at quite an angle. Then it turned on Lin when she went to see what the commotion was. She held it off with a rake while retreating up the external spiral staircase, locked herself in the house and called said friend. He called the carabinieri and they found it, caught it, muzzled it and carted it off. This is very rare, especially in populated areas such as ours, but I wanted to warn you that there can be such animals around. Grannies be especially aware and find yourselves a red cape with a hood for added protection. NB. The picture is not of the wolf she saw as she was too scared to go and get the camera!
13th June 2006

We were invited by Moira MacFarlane, the British Consul (centre), to an evening to celebrate the Queen's birthday at a huge villa in Perugia. A lot of important people were there including the Chief of the Carabinieri and the British Ambassador. It was great to see some of our friends there too (old and new). After the speeches there was a wonderful selection of nibbles and a pianoforte concert.
21st May 2006
Arriving home from a short visit to England we pulled into the car park to find that our mother duck, which had been sitting on the nest in the duck house, had hatched no less than eleven baby ducklings. Mum is very protective, but with so many darting around the pond and surrounding banks it is quite a task. Dad just struts his stuff, looking very proud! You can watch our ducks live on the webcam.

Finally our spiral staircase is delivered! This may not seem like breaking news to you but we have waited twelve months for this! It was supposed to be delivered in June 2005. The company that made it also made a grill for the front doors of the office and delivered that on time but we haven't even received a bill for it yet! All we need now is for the builder to come and open a gap in the wall so that we can use it..................
19th April 2006
My friend Steve found a baby duckling walking in the road. Knowing we had a duck pond he brought it to us. I keep it in my chicken house at the moment because my regular ducks are expecting to be parents shortly and I don't want to rock the boat.
23rd February 2006
We love Italian food, of course, but just now and then we like a curry or a Chinese and those kind of sauces are a rare as hen's teeth here. Friends and relatives very kindly bring things over for us. I simply can't manage without my Marmite on toast in the mornings, but the things like Marks and Spencer's socks are little more difficult. You see M&S don't deliver to Italy and the range of socks they carry is pretty huge. So what do we do? Well, I wrote to M&S to try to persuade them to export to Italy. After all Amazon manage it very well. All they need is a warehouse person slipping my order into a Jiffy bag and sticking a label on it. I wrote to M&S and would like to encourage you to do the same. This was my letter:
Dear Sirs
It's incredibly frustrating, you know. I subscribe to your newsletter and see wonderful things on your website but they are not for sale...not for me anyway, as you don't deliver to Italy. I moaned about this some time ago and even got a reply to say that my request was being sent to head office. Head Office, no less! But of course, as with so many big companies, movement has been copied from lichens and small crustaceans with spiral shells. We came over to England a month or so ago and spent a small fortune on clothes in the M&S store in Taunton. However, we don't come back very often so I will just have to live with my frustration, I suppose until the next time. Go on, surprise me! Why not? Amazon do it, Ebay does it, even tiny companies do it. It's called e-commerce and there is a big wide market out there of expats just waiting in the wings for their good old M&S to do it too.
Let's get together on this, then lobby another big company that doesn't deliver abroad. So this is my next target! www.nightingales.ltd.uk who have a superb range of women's clothes that my wife loves. But they don't deliver to Italy. So I wrote to them too. I will let you know the outcome. UPDATE: We visited M&S in London and I complained to the sales assistant about their policy of not exporting to Italy. Her manager overheard me and got on the phone to the commercial manager, no less. She said as a gesture of goodwill, if we telephone our order in they will work out the postage and send us the items. We're getting there.... FURTHER UPDATE: I received an email from Nightingales who tell me that they are a small family business and are unable to send their products abroad at the moment. They are reveiwing the situation though. I'll keep you posted. FURTHER UPDATE: I hear that Nighingales have now gone out of business. This is very sad but I can't help wondering that if they got into e-commerce and delivered to Europe they might not have done.
30th Jan 2006
There is a lovely little old lady called Gina who lives in Camerata and holds the keys for a couple of properties there. She is absolutely adorable and one of these days I'm going to kidnap her and take her home. She makes the most marvellous Limoncello Cremo, which is a like Bailey's but made with lemon liqueur. It has magical properties - every man who drinks it falls in love with Gina. This photo was taken by Damon Oriente, a client of ours. We are standing on the steps of her house. Note that Gina is standing one step higher than me! Small, but perfectly formed! If my wife ever leaves me...
10th December 2005
As a surprise Chistmas gift, our friends, Attilio and Anna Maria, whisked us off to Venice for a weekend, shopping, sight-seeing, and a visit to a casino. People always seemed surprised when they found out we had never been there in the five years we have lived in Italy. I can now understand their surprised reactions. It is FANTASTIC. Everyone should visit Venice at least once in their lives. It now tops my list of favourite cities in the world, pushing Siena down to number two.
8th October 2005
Well, once again our grapes are ready for picking and turning into that famous amber nectar, Grechetto Villa Rosa, well famous round here anyway. This year we picked a modest 500 kgs of grapes and pressed 300 litres of juice. Half the normal quantity. Why? Well it was a very long dry summer and the fruit didn't fill out to the normal size and looked pretty pathetic.
27th September 2005
Well, after a lot of research I finally made the decision to buy a Panasonic NV-GS75EG/EK in a shop here in Italy. I went to Mediaworld in the huge shopping centre just outside Perugia and waited 20 minutes just to be told it was out of stock, even though there was one on display. I shrugged and went next door to the Coop, where there was the same model at the same price in a glass display cabinet. I went to the counter and told the girl that I wanted to buy a video camera and I had already made my choice, it just needed fetching from the store room. After waiting 40 minutes at the counter even I, with the patience of a saint, was beginning to lose my cool. I had regularly asked how much longer it would take to get assistance so it wasn't a case of being forgotten. Then I thought 'What can I do to speed this up? I want this camera'. Then I noticed a pile of Olivetti printers in large, bright orange boxes opposite and put one on the counter. I waited 2 minutes and then put another one on the counter. Another 2 minutes and I put a third one there. I was beginning to get some attention but still nothing was happening, so I put a fourth one there. It was now nearly impossible for the girls to work as they couldn't actually see the customers! And I was running out of space, and patience. Finally it worked. They collared someone to help me. I said 'Just don't tell me it's out of stock!' He went off to fetch it. Then I went through the buying procedure. I wanted to pay by cheque. They needed my identity card, my driving licence, my credit card, IVA (VAT) number, and I also volunteered to tell them the colour of my cat...which raised a patronising smile. Well, I got my camera. I took it home and found the instructions were in Italian, German, Dutch and French. No English, even though all the buttons are English. I went online and downloaded an English manual from the Panasonic website. Then I found that I needed an SD card and a video cassette before I could use it! They might have told me that in the shop and got a second sale, but there it is. Maybe I should have bought online after all. See also our page entitled Buying a camcorder for advice and information.
11th September 2005
I admit, I didn't give our wine the attention it deserved over the last twelve months and it has been sitting in the tank unloved until now, when I need it again for this year's crop. I assumed that it was rubbish and started to throw it away, all 600 litres of it. However, as I did so I realised it actually smelt quite good so I drew a cup off and tasted it. Our best yet! So I had to spend a whole day bottling it up.
11th August 2005
Our ducks had been escaping from the duck pond so a guest, and duck expert, Peter Scott (no, not the real one!), gave me a hand to catch them and trim the flight feathers from one wing. This makes them fly in a circle, apparently! The next day one flew away, but the others are still friends with me.
3rd June 2005
Roddy Gee, a client of ours, produced this amazing leaded window for us as a thank you for help in buying his house. He brought it over from England and even fitted it for us. Isn't it wonderful?
24th May 2005
With the warmer weather now pretty stable I went to Carboni's, the place that rears chickens, ducks, geese, etc. and bought four baby Mallards for my duck pond. They are a couple weeks old and really cute. I don't know what sex they are as the supplier says they are too young to tell yet. It will be interesting to find out. You go to the office, tell them what you want, pay, get a ticket, find a lady on a bike who you follow at walking pace to a big shed and take your ducklings home in a box.
21st March 2005
One day it's winter and the next it seems like summer and we have been having lunch on the terrace every day for the past week.
One of the most beautiful signs of springtime is the first to come into flower. The famous Mimosa is a cascade of yellow fluffy blooms and we planted one last autumn. The plant is significant for another reason. It is also the symbol for 'Women's Day' and traditionally a bouquet is given to women in Italy on this day. Often a member of staff will be handing out small sprigs outside a supermarket, free of charge, as you leave.
With the worst winter in 50 years here in Italy we had our first real snow in four years. For some reason our side of the Tiber Valley gets only a light dusting while everywhere else gets 15cm! However, with my 4x4 I haven't been stuck and even got up into the mountains one day to show people a house.
Saturday 12th February 2005
What a surprise! I was going out to the car when I spotted a huge white duck swimming in our new duck pond. I was planning to get some ducklings in the spring when the weather warms up a little but he's beaten me to it. I had to spend the weekend finishing the fencing to keep him in. The pond is about 3m x 4m within an enclosure of about 7m x 10m so they will have plenty of space. When it rains all the water that comes down the road is channelled into a drain which is then piped to the pond to refresh the water. We planted two trees, a weeping willow and a silver birch, to provide some shade and will be collecting an old wooden shed shortly as the duck house. An old walnut tree acts as a bridge for them to perch on.
30th January to 6th February 2005
My mother had been taken into hospital in the middle of the night and I felt I had to return to England to spend some time with her and visit family and friends at the same time. At such short notice Lin, my wife, stayed home to look after her mother, who lives with us, and run the business. Surprisingly the weather in England was much warmer, but overcast, whilst in Italy it was cold, dry and sunny. I missed my espresso and pastry in the mornings and noticed the much higher prices, fish and chips at £6.95 and a pint of beer at £2.40. I can have a four course meal with a litre of wine for that!
Tuesday 7th January 2005
Excitement today as issue 02 of Italian Magazine arrives and there is a three page article about us called 'Taking the Plunge'. It is strange to see yourself in print and read the words you wrote a few weeks before.
Wednesday 22nd December 2004
A candlelit carol service in English! What a treat! About 50 people attended our fabulous church in the middle of Assisi for a lovely Christmas service with home-made mince pies and wine afterwards.
Saturday 18th December 2004
John Tordoff and Maurice Reeve invited us and about 20 friends to their house for a wonderful buffet followed by seasonal readings by John and Christmassy music by Maurice on the keyboard. A class act!
Thursday 9th December 2004
I took a rare day off to go Christmas shopping on my own. Touring the shops on my own picking up the odd present for my wife and family and snatching a slice of pizza and a beer in a bar was a real treat for me.
Monday 6th December 2004
Finally, our plumber connects the gas tank! I told you he would address the problem created by the ultra fast installation of the tank by delaying the connection. Just in time for Christmas!
16th - 19th November 2004
This week we picked our olives, a total of 410kg, which should produce about 50 litres of oil. We return to the mill to collect it in a few days time.
Sunday 21st November 2004
We were honoured today by a visit from Bishop John Flack, the Archbishop of Canterbury's envoy to the Holy See, who took a service in our church in Assisi. He's a very down-to-earth sort of guy and it was great fun discussing 'The da Vinci Code' by Dan Brown with him afterwards, my favourite book.
19th November 2004
We set off this morning by train to Florence where the Banca Toscana had invited us to a presentation about a new service for British investors buying property in Tuscany, Umbria and Le Marché. Although Florence was its usual fantastic self the meeting missed the point a little and we came away without much in the way of an exciting deal.
Saturday 6th November 2004
This evening we had our play reading of 'An Inspector Calls' by J B Priestley in the house of one of the members. My wife and I both had parts in it, in fact I was the Inspector. Great fun and the host prepared a wonderful Indian meal for us all with various curries, poppadums and all the trimmings. Quite a change from our usual Italian food.
Thursday 4th November 2004
This evening we were invited back to dinner by Australian clients who bought a house through us a year ago and wanted to show us what they had done. Its always exciting to go back and see the transformation from abandoned house to a charming holiday home. The house has been restored keeping many of the original features but was light and spacious with wonderful views.
Saturday 30th October 2004
We've had guests all week, clients actually, to see houses. They turned into friends and very kindly asked us out for a meal at our favourite restaurant, Il Rustichello near Deruta. We had a wonderful lobster salad followed by king prawn flambé and Chianti Classico. What a treat!
Friday 29th October 2004
This morning I went out to feed and water the rabbits and chickens as usual and noticed a small movement in the corner of the rabbit house. At first I thought it was a mouse or something but looked closer and found a group of four small bunnies, several weeks old, which I didn't know I had!
Thursday 28th October 2004
First thing this morning the digger arrived to make the hole for the gas tank. Within an hour is was finished and he hoisted the tank into it. Valentino, our builder then filled the space around it with soil. He was anxious that we fill the tank immediately with liquid gas as otherwise it might float if the hole became waterlogged! So we called the gas company. Within an hour the tanker arrived and filled it up. He said it had to be checked and an engineer would be arriving to do that. Within half an hour he was here too! 'Hey, slow down chaps you're setting a bad example the rest of the Italian construction industry.' Now we have to wait for our plumber to arrive and connect it up. I am sure he will address the balance, plumbers always do.
Tuesday 26th October 2004
This was the day that our gas tank was arriving, between 9:00am and 9:30am. Typically it arrived in the middle of the afternoon so we had to stay in all day to meet it. It is 1,750 litres and will be sunk underground, with just a green plastic 'dustbin lid' on the ground surface. It is bolted to a rectangular concrete base and next we need the hole dug. So now we have to wait for the digger...
Wednesday 20th October 2004
We had a meeting this morning with our builder and the man from Umbrigas, who supply LPG (known as GPL here). It seems we can have a gas storage tank installed for nothing and then get a third off the price of the gas if we sign a contract for 2 years. Seems like a good deal so we signed up. We could be connected up by Christmas! We also pressed our red grapes today and ended up with about 100 litres of wine, which should also be ready for Christmas.
Tuesday 19th October 2004
After paying 2,000 euros and waiting a year for mains gas to be installed we finally found out that ENEL gas had connected the gas main to the wrong house! Apparently this is the usual price for a 50m connection and our house will cost a lot more as it's 300 metres away from the line! Time to think again.
Sunday 17th October 2004
We had clients arrive this morning to discuss buying a house in Umbria. They had an idea of what they wanted and it included two properties that I had the keys to so we took off to see them. We stopped for lunch in a restaurant that I had never been to before on the way, finally getting back to base at 5:00pm.
Friday 15th October 2004
We set off early today to visit the motorizzazione office in Perugia, the equivalent of an MOT station in the UK but it serves the whole area. Our beloved camper is due for its bi-annual test but the office made a mistake when we changed over to Italian number plates and it says gasolio (diesel) instead of benzina (petrol) so we have to get a new log book. This was the second visit and it still isn't ready. We have to go back again in 10 days.
Thursday 14th October 2004
Today we decided to press our grapes. The huge press is only used for one day a year...but we can't do without it. 500 litres of juice was poured into our fibreglass tank. Now we pray for the bubbling to start! Lin picked the red grapes while this was going on and we hope to get 100 litres of red this year. Tonight we are going to a curry evening. A local English couple have invited an Indian chef to cook at their house for a group of us at €15 a head. We can't wait!
Wednesday 13th October 2004
I woke at 6:00am with a really painful finger from the cut yesterday. I may be infected so my wife and I drove to the pronto soccorso of Marsciano hospital to get it looked at. Fortunately it was just a little inflamed and the bandage a little too tight. I needed a tetanus jab and a new dressing. It always amazes us just how good the medical service is here. An ambulance man in bright orange overalls and heavy boots treated me immediately we got to the hospital!
Tuesday 12th October 2004
Six eggs! We have four hens a-laying and they broke the record for mass production this morning. We also have 15 chickens destined for the table in the next pen which we got free as one-day-old chicks several months ago. Then there are three rabbits, a male and two females. Next we plan to get some ducks. We built a duck pond a couple of weeks ago and I have to fence it off first. Today we decided to start picking the grapes. I thought "How do I get out of this?", so I cut the top of my finger off with the secateurs! Good idea, eh? Not. Then I had to shoot off to visit some new houses to put on the website, all in Monte Castello di Vibio so keep an eye on the Property List.
Monday 11th October 2004
Well, we had planned to pick our grapes today, but thunderstorms overnight left the vineyard soaking and the grapes need to dry out again. We had our first chance to see the programme about our house televised on Channel 4 recently. It is strange seeing yourself on TV, like it is not really you, but we were pleased with the results and it is a great record to cherish later on and show our visitors.
Sunday 10th October 2004
Lanfranco had promised me a ride on his 850cc Honda motorbike at a party some weeks ago. I had never ridden on a motorbike before, even as a passenger, and the thought of it was exciting. This morning the doorbell rang and, without warning, there he was! I hurriedly put on some shoes and a jacket, squeezed into a helmet that his wife normally wears and we set off. As we dropped down the hill the first hairpin bend felt as if we were about to fall over then we weaved back the other way and out onto the plain of the Tiber Valley. The long straight zipped past but he made me feel very confident of his ability. It wasn't until we had travelled about 10km that I felt the pains. First, my cheeks hurt from the smiling, then my hands hurt from gripping the handles. I consciously tried not to smile and relax a little. As we zoomed back home my eyes watered and I was thankfull that I wasn't wearing contact lenses...they would be lying in the road somewhere by now!
There’s a hammering at the bedroom door. Giemi (pron. Jamie), our huge, neutered, male cat, wants to come into the bedroom. We don’t argue! The sun is pouring in the window, having suddenly burst over the mountains across the valley, and Giemi thinks it’s time he had his breakfast. Pazi (pron. Patsy), our smaller, neutered, female cat, taps lightly on the door beside him. She thinks so too. I stagger downstairs to make a cup of tea and feed two ravenous animals. There are more to come. My wife Lin enjoys a cup of tea, PG Tips sent over from England, in bed first thing in the morning so I take one back up for her and we spend a few minutes chatting over the planned day ahead. Giemi has pinched my place! Ten minutes later there is another hammering at the door. The front door this time. ‘Roberto! Roberto!’, our builder calls. He needs a decision on where to dump the next load of sand as the last one blocked my tractor in. Fiorenzo is the sort of guy that is instantly likeable, intensely proud of his work, and needing a pat on the back every day. He calls me Roberto (Robert is my second name) as Italians find it difficult to pronounce Graham. His team start another day tapping away at the walls to remove the ancient, crumbling plaster between the stones and bricks ready to repoint. The cockerels are crowing, a nearby peacock is shrieking, a couple of dogs start barking, and Angelo pulls into his vineyard opposite the house with his tractor to start rotavating. Whoever said it was quiet in the country? Our house is undergoing further restoration in readiness for our visitors; family, friends and guests. Easter was the deadline and they have worked hard to get the roof restored, beams replaced and floors rebuilt but there is still work to do. I must feed the rabbits and chickens! We have several rabbit cages, one divided for the two mothers, one for the father and one for the latest litter. They need their water bottles topped up and a scoop of food in each feeder. The task of preparing them for the table is one of my least desirable jobs. We were so concerned about the problems with BSE, foot and mouth and salmonella back in England that we want to eat our own fresh and healthy meat. The chickens hear me in the rabbit house and start their little chorus. We have four hens and they lay all through the winter, unlike other local hens. So the neighbours want to know our secret. ‘Talk to them and stroke them’ I tell them. "Pah! Com’è" (how can that be?) they retort and carry on their own sweet way. "Pazi inglese!" (crazy English) they mutter.
